Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Tourists and trolls

Indian summer has finally arrived. Kids are gone, the air is a bit crisper and crowds are small. Today's little 2-4 wind swell and a couple of head high SW bombs for fun proved fun. I find by sitting out at my favorite spot all by myself and picking off the good ones that peel off and leave the one-peak one-turn ones to pass by is the way to go. Surfing is a matter of hustle and flow, and at Lower Trestles, it's almost all hustle, and that usually means hustling waves from someone else. Off peak, I get more into the flow of the wave and most of the time the swell winds down the point much better anyway, letting me set up sequences of things and not just one big move or another. The thing is, most surfers are retarded, not Rain Man retarded, Paris Hilton retarded. I'd just as well avoid them than let them embarrass themselves trying to string words together, and let them surf on the main peak with all the other tourists and trolls.

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