Lumpy, bumpy and dumpy

Desperation made me paddle out into Old Man's, today, hoping for a miracle. If only, somehow, the close-out lumpy waves would produce something worth riding. As it turns out, I got 5 waves, all about head high, but nothing really special. Still, that was 5 more than if I just stayed on the beach, so, I suppose, I should be grateful, even if they were all lumpy, bumpy and dumpy.

Lumpy, bumpy and dumpy

Desperation made me paddle out into Old Man's today hoping for a miracle that the close out lump waves would produce something worth riding. As it turns out, I got 5 waves, all about head high, but nothing really special. Still, that was 5 more than if I just stayed on the beach, so I suppose I should be grateful even if they were lumpy, bumpy and dumpy.

Lit me up like a rocket!

In the middle of Memorial Day Weekend, it is best to run off and find a quiet place....Actually there is no such thing today. Lines of cars 100 deep were the norm trying to slip in to Trestles and Sano.
With that, Trails was the Call today. Even at old Trail 2, the crowd loomed. But as a pod of porpoise passed by, I decided to flip a coin. I lost, and had to paddle out. As luck would have it, the people dissolved the the surf got much better. In fact, there were two waves that lit me up like a rocket!

I blended in well

After almost giving up hope of the surf ever returning, the ocean finally teased and spread out a nice buffet of waves to ride today. Without the stinking red tide, glassy green waves rolled gently to shore, which I hope is a hint of summertime things to come soon. Glassy and head high waves occasionally made me think: I can still do this! Even after a few false starts, due to lack of practice, I got eventually into rhythm and cruised up and down, back and forth, and in and out the foamy rollers just like old times. Breaking out of the box, I went to Old Mans inside reef on the south side. The SW swell needed a real point to break on, and despite the crowd, I could cherry pick what I needed between the goofy pack out there. Just as well, really, because the lack of surf has made me feel like an old man, so I blended in well.

Crap!

Cold, red tide, agro crowd at lowers, tiny...what's not to love? Crap!