Monday, January 29, 2007

Trestles still inspires me in awe!

Awe was the word for today. Awe-some waves at Trestles surprised me and everybody else today. Head high fire breathing lines spun down the point at just less than closeout speed, which made them the best waves so far this year to carve up. Awe-ful is the only word I can use for the crowd, which were rude, incompetent and more or less a perfectly good waste of surf wax. Still, after getting almost run over and cut off a few times, I took the gloves off and just paddled around them and got the best waves of the day. There isn't enough aspirin on the planet to fix me today after that session, but I can relish the memories of flying across the reef on my favorite wave, down the point ripping it up on my surfboard, with Lower Trestles in its prime form. Even after surfing it for 37 years to this day, Trestles still inspires me in awe!

Friday, January 26, 2007

Still is worth waiting for

Well, the surf finally got up out of the knee high range today for the first time in a month. Being well forecast and a Friday, all the troops were there in full force at the beach. I elected to sneak into Dogpatch territory, almost over-run with paddle boarders now, and hope for the best. Luckily, a few really nice ones came my way, and I was getting pretty interesting off the lips as the head high surf cracked over the reef at the lower tide. Too good to be true, the south wind came up and squashed the session in a matter of moments, leaving everyone to complain bitterly as they paddled in en masse about the month of lousy surf and then now to be teased by an hour of good head high waves, but then only to have them rendered useless by an evil south wind! Still, the few I got reminded me that it still is worth waiting for.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

A good session!

After a way-too-long stretch of icebergs and tiny winter waves, I finally got some small surf at Lowers today. It was sunny, warm and picture perfect when I paddled out with only 1 other guy out. And it is nice when you climb into a tube to get your head wet for the first time. Still, even though it was annoying small, I'll take this over flat and freezing any day. I saw my buddy Den, the baby seal, wave to me as I left when the crowd swelled to over a dozen. Still, I got it when the going was good, and I needed a good session!

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Head dipping fun

Oh, what a beautiful morning! Stunning glassy uncrowded waves met me today at Lower Trestles as well as a big dolphin in the surf. Small waves but fun, the waves took on a crystal like shimmer and were transparent, leaving the rocks and kelp below to whiz by perfectly visible. I got a dozen or so waves, soft on some but others just really full of head dipping fun!

Monday, January 08, 2007

7-11

I feel like I won the lottery today. Lowers was empty! It was sunny, offshore and small but perfect. I rode the little ones all the way to shore mostly. I even got to do the heroes walk because it was easier to walk back up the point than paddle all the way back. It is so rare when you get it all to yourself, but to get Lowers and a sunny offshore day is inconceivable. Maybe I should get a lottery ticket from the 7-11.

Sunday, January 07, 2007

007

After a truly dismal stretch this past month for waves, I made it out to Lowers today and pretty much had it to myself in the prettiest morning in recent memory. A contest at Churches offered premium parking and the little waves provided maximum fun and few consequences, as it was very forgiving, small and soft. Still, with perfect little waves, my friendly seal, Den, to keep me company and Lowers in all its glory, I feel like I sneaked in like the old days to get under the radar and get it good like as if I was on a spy mission...finally I get to welcome in 007!