To just get a taste

Just as I leave the surf goes epic...typical! Even Old Man's had some big deep water rollers that had lots of shoulder today, and I managed a few ones to just get a taste.

Made it all worthwhile

Summer-like conditions prevailed today with what can only be described as Disneyesque. Bunnies, Squirrels , Dragon Flies , Butterflies and all manner of Toontown things were in the water and out enjoying the beach today. At what at first was maximum capacity crowds gave way to me and my own little peak this Indian Summer's day Out at Old Man's at Sano. And even if the waves at Old man's were nothing special, the giftwrapping of Indian summer made it all worthwhile.

Upper Middle Lowers

Conditions were perfect so I wheeled down to my favorite spot and was able to snag a few waves here and there. With big A Frames coming in at the point, I slipped just off it and got the better waves that raced down the point rather than break and just fade fast. Did no less than a three dipper on my last wave, and stepped off onto the sand as the tide was just killing it but making it hollow. My theory is it is hollower and better at high tide at the big T because it rolls past the gradual shelf rise and up the beach faster. As it turns out, I really like my spot at Upper Middle Lowers.

Do the surf dance

Today was way better than yesterday. I could buy a wave. In fact, I got a tubed, rocked a few walls and carried on in my usual mad fashion. Conditions were smaller but couldn't have been better and I had the place to myself for at least an hour until I drew a crowd like flies to...well you know. It is nice to know that I still know how to do the surf dance.

Maybe tomorrow...

Hot and glassy this morning, all kinds of waves, excitedly paddles out and...

Nothing...

Could not buy a wave this morning. Paddled outside, they broke inside. Paddled inside, they broke on my head. I just paddled in circles while missing one wave after another. Stumbled into a couple by mistake, and looked like a complete kook on them.

To be fair, the waves were breaking anywhere in a 50 yard range today, but usually I get lucky. Not today.

Sigh...too long out of the water, I think.

Maybe tomorrow...

The last hurrah's's of summer

It was finally big enough to paddle out today, and under heavenly conditions, I managed a few waves at Dopatch. With the swell and tide working against me, I slipped up to Old man's and found a few waves with way too many of the usual suspects. All in all, it wasn't really that great, but with it sunny, 80 degrees and without a breath of wind, it felt like the last hurrah's's of summer.