Thursday, September 27, 2007

It was time to head for home

Pre-dawn was the call today as the full Moon raised the tide very quickly this morning. It was warm due to the unseasonably bathwater temperature and in spite of the cool offshore wind. I got several kinda fun waves before the south wind, tides and crowds pushed me home. Wave of the day, which was the last wave, carried me all the way to beach, letting me off at the shore to step off on the sand in stride, up the beach berm and tell me it was time to head for home.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Made my day

Really nice conditions today as offshore winds combed the waves back into veils of gold as the sun broke over the cliffs at sunrise. Too bad my leash broke also, and I got to do a lot a extra swimming today. Just as well, as it was all good exercise. I even body surfed a wave in! Can't remember the last time I did that. A lotta bad swell direction made the waves pretty closed out, but once again a left appeared out a nowhere and made my day.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

One hit wonders

Under perfect Indian Summer Conditions I found Dogpatch empty for a little while today, so, I got out at sunrise and gave it my best. The surf was decent sized but it was a really a lousy direction for the whole area except for Lowers, and you can imagine how many die hard surf Nazis were out today. As a rule, most of the waves today were just a turn or two and a big off the lip re-entry, but after a lousy summer it was good enough for me. I did manage to get an overhead left for my last wave that was really hot and did the best squared off bottom turn into the lip in recent memory. I will keep that one in mind today and forget all the other waves that were one hit wonders.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Sloppy

It started to look like Fall today but grew sloppy quickly. Maybe tomorrow it won't be so sloppy.

Friday, September 07, 2007

Hula Bula Lucky Day

Zippity Do Dah Day! The kids are back in school, the water is still warmed up nicely. Surf and sunny offshore conditions produced some really Cowabunga surf at the Dogpatch this morning. Some of the waves lined up and really let me have a go on them. Slicing and dicing my way down the point, I had more than my fair share today as the old men paddled off the spot. It was a Hula Bula Lucky Day!

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Bring it on

The Summer Circus left town after a final weekend of soaring temperatures and meager surf that produced the worst crowds I have ever seen. Predictably, the day after found me at my favorite spot at Dogpatch by myself picking off all the head high curvy little waves I could catch. I am glad summer is over, day care is almost in session, and if this is any glimpse into what fall has in store for me, then I say bring it on!