Just one hit wonders

Summertime conditions and a lazy swell made for a lackluster go out today at Old Man's. The swells were crossing up each other so much that there was nothing but peaks to take off on then very little to ride after that. So today, there were just one hit wonders.

Sometimes I just do

When the water is warmer than the air, you get a really nice feeling out in the surf. Even with 71 degree water and 65 degree air, with light off shores , Old Dogpatch was still trying my patience, cluttered with the Summer surf crowd. With a bunch of yahoos in the water and lots of long lulls, waiting was the name of the game today, as well as not getting run over or running anyone else over. till, I had a few rip roaring waves in spite of myself, trusting that I can surf circles around the other people in the water, and sometimes I just do!

Busted out a few new tricks

After taking the weekend off because the 100 degree Hot Conditions drove all manner of Kook-dom into the water, I was rewarded this morning with fairly good surf at Old Man's, slipping into a almost vacant parking lot at my favorite place by the shower and the picnic table. As the summer begins, I was pleased as to how few people were out this morning, and even though the place had a slow start because of the tide, it finally got around to getting a few peaks that were rather trestles-like. Today the special event was a couple of foam climbs, which I never had done before, but it was warm and I was loose so I just busted out a few new tricks.

Hadn't forgotten how to go backside

Rocking Summer conditions today after the Zombie fog, fog so thick you can cut it with a knife, lifted. With 3 swells running it was nonstop paddling and lots of duck diving today. Still got a few ones worth mentioning. About this time of year the Southerly Swells produce more lefts than rights, so after an entire winter of going right, I hooked up to a few big lefts today and was pleased I hadn't forgotten how to go backside.

Let me really kick it around a bit

The last few days of summer without the kids out of school is a nice reminder how surfing should be. Lots of swell and not many people enjoyed perfect conditions at Old Man's. The new SW swell was showing bigger and more closed out, but the older one, which was fading, showed a really nice peak on the semi-inside. Trouble was, it was tough letting all the big overhead ones go, but you had to as they were all closed out anyway, and sneak around on the inside getting the mid sized head high peaks that lined up and let me really kick it around a bit.

Happily tangled up in Blue

Summer surf session today at Old Man's with a somewhat lackluster swell pushing through a peak or two but not much else. At least I got a few nice ones today, as I had some death defying drops at least, even if they petered out quickly. With a little cover up and some perfect conditions to boot, I have to admit I was happily tangled up in Blue.

I predict

Well, the fin fell out of my surfboard today, signaling the ends of a Sunny era. Let's hope baby blue skies open up tomorrow, and when we try again, it will be a lot cleaner. With 3 swells breaking on top of each other, it was hard not to get bumped off today, with or without fins. Tomorrow will be way better, I predict.

I will be watching!

The surf was kinder to me today. I somehow managed a few bombs in spite of the crowds at Old Mans and ripped a few waves nicely with big roundhouse turns. There is a little spot forming in front of the showers that is just to the right of the Volleyball nets. The sand from the Southwest swell is getting pushed up there from Dogpatch and a formidable little peak is starting to show. With a week of SW swells in in the forecast, this place may be the place to be. I will be watching!

Just gave up

I don't know what is worse: Yesterday it was obviously bad and I didn't go out and today it was marginally good and I had to go out. So crowded and inconsistent, it was barely even worth it as old geezers with battleships rolled by on the the wave resisting any notion of turning, ruining one good possibility after another in terms of me getting any waves. Tired and frustrated, I eventually just gave up.

It is all good

After getting beat to death by paddling through a 45 wave set first thing when I went out, I was tired before I ever even took off this morning. A deep water Southwest swell, 210 degrees, hits this area all wrong and almost everyplace closes out. Lowers is the one exception, but everyone and their dog knows that and were all already out there as I drove by. I found that the inside left hand side of Old Man's also does a nice job with a 210 SW swell, especially if it is a deep water one with a long period. So after getting my licks in today, I returned the favor, completely destroying some head high waves with big pitchy shoulders all the way through. I may be a crippled jellyfish tomorrow once my body figures out what it did today, but for today it is all good.

Picking off the good ones

Today is the first day of summer to me! The water is nice and warm, the sun is warm and friendly, and all the little kiddies are out at Lower Trestles turning it into a virtual snake pit. I got a few little waves today but there was really nothing other than gutless tiny waves, the hallmark of summer conditions. Still, it was nice to paddle out in just a spring suit and watch the little snakes fight one another for meaningless waves while I was inside picking off the good ones.