Ain't dead yet set

Old Man's is a funny place. The talk in the water drifts from medical tests, MRI's and even 1 guy was bragging about wearing a heart monitor while surfing. The old guys ride battleships and rarely even turn them, so for the last couple days, I resigned myself to sitting inside and getting their better shaped reforming waves breaking on the inside while trying to avoid the armada of battleships that coast on swells not even breaking by the ain't dead yet set.

Really cool

The water dropped 10 degrees since last time but some waves popped up overnight, fighting the choppy little wind swell, as the bigger deep water swells from a long way off rolled through irregularly. Some good waves at little old man's for a bit until the waves slowed from the tide, signaling all the kooks that it was safe to paddle out, so they did. Shivery though it was in only a spring suit, I still ripped the tops off a few head high waves which made the cold water just seem really cool.

A very welcome change

As scary as it was to watch 50 kids paddling out towards you in red shirts from the local Sea Surf School, it really turned out OK, as I just paddled down in front of Old Mans and got some rip roaring waves for a change. With a new swell just showing and the the conditions and tides just perfect, I hung around on the inside and seriously whacked a few nice waves today for a very welcome change.

Just grin and bear it

Everybody was out today at Sano in perfect conditions and warm fuzzy surf. It was so nice except for for the fact I had to just paddle in and around the smiling idiots just to catch a few waves . Sometimes you have to just grin and bear it.

Midsummer's sunshine daydream

Under perfect conditions a tiny little south swell produced 10 waves every 10 minutes, leaving me to bake in the sunny seemingly flat lulls waiting for waves that traveled all the way from Chile to grace our shores. Not much, but compared to what it has been lately, it seemed like a mid-summer's sunshine daydream.

It all is just a tease

I got wet today and still know how to paddle around, but this summer will go down in infamy as the worst ever for surf. Just as well, as annoyingly Titanic projects require most my time anyway. Nice warm water, perfect conditions, but it all is just a tease.

Miracle of Miracles!

New Swells and good conditions finally arrived on the same day. Miracle of Miracles!