A whale tale

O MY GOD! It was perfect. Really, Really Prefect. Hot, Glassy, a Lower's Point mostly all to myself, and enough overhead waves to keep you racing down the point. On top of that, I saw a whale! Not just a sighting, but a close encounter. The 25 foot long whale surfaced 3 feet from me on the inside, between me end the shore. Needless to say, it was so perfect today you'd think it was all a whale tale.

Wayyyyy better than others

It is not often you have to think of a place SMALL enough to paddle out. That was the case today as a lingering westerly swell rolled through with some big powerful waves today. It also seemed like the first day of spring, as the rain has given way to hot sunny conditions. I was wheezing and paddling like an old man at Dogpatch today, but when I finally got one, I did things I should not still be allowed to do at my age: carving, flying over lips and ducking in tubes. I may ache tomorrow, but today is proof that some days are wayyyyy better than others.

This was even better!

Incredible is the only way to describe today. Hot, sunny glassy, the only guy out, flocks of gulls and pelicans, dolphins swimming with their new pups, white tall egrets in the shore wash all provided a fairy tale backdrop to some serious head high surf. Ripping the place to shreds with ease, doing some hero walks, and basking in the heat of the 75 degree conditions all added to that odd feeling like I was dreaming, but this was even better!

The Hero's Walk!

Holy Crap it was good today. It was 70 degrees on the beach and sunny and offshore most the morning. Big sneaker overhead NW sets would come by every so often and just peel perfectly to the shore. It is my favorite set up, as you paddle out on the right of the point for 50 paddles, pick up a bomb that takes you 150-200 yards down the point, and you kick out, step out on the sand and walk back up the beach. Although there were a few slow spots, I really ripped the living daylights out of most everything I got, seeming to keep the best ones for myself and away from the weekend crowd. I carved and tubed and backslashed every possible thing I could think of and did a couple things I have never done like through the lip turn launches that really surprised me that I pulled them off. All in all, I call the long walk back on the beach the hero's walk, because you feel like you really got it for all it was worth when you do that. After a dozen or so of just ripping the long overhead waves, I was grooving walking back up the beach, watching the dolphins swim by with their new born little ones and really feeling like I earned the Hero's Walk!

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field out in the water for an hour and and a Half. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field ou in the water. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!