Peeled playfully to the beach

Summer for winter today and almost perfect 3 foot waves were firing at Lower Trestles today. It really is the best fun wave on the planet , and it proved it today, as one wave after another peeled playfully to the beach.

Rare but rewarding deep Barrel

Lowers was sunny and playful today after a log dry spell. One of the few days all year where I get the Top of the point to myself for a little while, and I got some whiz bang ones in spite of myself including a rare but rewarding deep Barrel.

Feels pretty good

Fun and playful Lower's is pretty fun any way you cut it. Summer like conditions and a bit of swell allowed my favorite peak to kick up a few peaks that really made my day. Felt like I had my own personal peak, and that feels pretty good.

Top 5 days at Lowers ever

Not Epic, but Lowers was truly classic today in Summer-like conditions. Doing the noon hour run, the hot and glassy conditions with the head high swell made for a few of those waves that make you feel like you are Slater. Slamming the lips, carving roundhouse cutbacks and ducking through tubes made today for me one of the top 5 days at Lowers ever.

Snap

There was a definite snap in the air today as Fall was turning our little summer surf into something playful and fun. Old Man's was tossing a rare tube and I was hitting it with not a usual glide over the sections but with a solid snap.

Rather playful manner

After a long dry spell, letting the long list of injuries finally heal, I limped out today and had a rather good session out in the Waves at Dogpatch. Officially, Winter long suit and offshore conditions met me with some nice long waves that pushed me down the point in a rather playful manner.

To just get a taste

Just as I leave the surf goes epic...typical! Even Old Man's had some big deep water rollers that had lots of shoulder today, and I managed a few ones to just get a taste.

Made it all worthwhile

Summer-like conditions prevailed today with what can only be described as Disneyesque. Bunnies, Squirrels , Dragon Flies , Butterflies and all manner of Toontown things were in the water and out enjoying the beach today. At what at first was maximum capacity crowds gave way to me and my own little peak this Indian Summer's day Out at Old Man's at Sano. And even if the waves at Old man's were nothing special, the giftwrapping of Indian summer made it all worthwhile.

Upper Middle Lowers

Conditions were perfect so I wheeled down to my favorite spot and was able to snag a few waves here and there. With big A Frames coming in at the point, I slipped just off it and got the better waves that raced down the point rather than break and just fade fast. Did no less than a three dipper on my last wave, and stepped off onto the sand as the tide was just killing it but making it hollow. My theory is it is hollower and better at high tide at the big T because it rolls past the gradual shelf rise and up the beach faster. As it turns out, I really like my spot at Upper Middle Lowers.

Do the surf dance

Today was way better than yesterday. I could buy a wave. In fact, I got a tubed, rocked a few walls and carried on in my usual mad fashion. Conditions were smaller but couldn't have been better and I had the place to myself for at least an hour until I drew a crowd like flies to...well you know. It is nice to know that I still know how to do the surf dance.

Maybe tomorrow...

Hot and glassy this morning, all kinds of waves, excitedly paddles out and...

Nothing...

Could not buy a wave this morning. Paddled outside, they broke inside. Paddled inside, they broke on my head. I just paddled in circles while missing one wave after another. Stumbled into a couple by mistake, and looked like a complete kook on them.

To be fair, the waves were breaking anywhere in a 50 yard range today, but usually I get lucky. Not today.

Sigh...too long out of the water, I think.

Maybe tomorrow...

The last hurrah's's of summer

It was finally big enough to paddle out today, and under heavenly conditions, I managed a few waves at Dopatch. With the swell and tide working against me, I slipped up to Old man's and found a few waves with way too many of the usual suspects. All in all, it wasn't really that great, but with it sunny, 80 degrees and without a breath of wind, it felt like the last hurrah's's of summer.

Nice conditions

The swell was creeping up as I was in the water this morning. It seemed like each set of waves got progressively bigger, stronger and warmer. Too bad they didn't get better. Even Dogpatch couldn't sort out the big walls of mostly closeouts. So I got a few inside waves, but for the most part, I just enjoyed the lack of school children, lack of contest madness and nice conditions.

Win the contest

I went surfing with Kelly Slater today. Sort of... He was surfing the ASP contest which has tied up lower Trestles all week while I was down on the border of the contest behind the Lifeguard boat guarding the border, picking off almost all closeouts but I had a great view of the contest from the water. As it usually happens, the best waves of the day show up when he is in the water, so I planned my session around him being in the water. The waves were better at that time, too. So I got a few waves on an impossible mission, got a good view of the contest, and of course Slater went on to win the contest.

Happy landings

Dog Patch is traditionally a pathetically slow wave, that is, unless the South Swell is trying to close out and has a bit of juice to it. Then, the inside holds up just slightly long enough to race over the shallow reef inside, providing a hollow wave for a bit. I used this little local knowledge, as it worked well for me today, catching these little shoulder high race tracks and bouncing off sections, ducking lips, and flying and sailing over the end sections with happy landings.

Summer Rules

The first Summer swell arrived yesterday, just as the kids returned to school. Too bad it was just miserably shaped and everyone and their dog was all over it. I am guessing they beat each other up so bad that the crowds were half of what they were yesterday, and I managed to find a little spot to myself for a while in Dogpatch. The euphemism the forecasts use is "pick and choose corners", which basically means it is closed out but you may get an end or two. Indeed, that is about all I got today, but a few nice ones in spite of myself make me think that even though it is late arriving, summer rules!

Screaming down the point

Indian summer is here, complete with the kids all in school, perfect sunny warm conditions and water, and Lower Trestles doing that thing it does so well, making small surf into long playful walls to surf you brains out. Granted, they were building up the grandstands on the beach for the contest next week and some hot shots were in the water, but I had my own peak to myself for the most part, and got plenty of walls that sent me screaming down the point.

My own private point

When I saw the Lowers Peak with only 3 guys out this morning, I raced down as fast as I could and got it empty, glassy and good. Sadly, 30 people joined us in no time, the wind came up, and I left in disgust yet again. But for a few minutes it felt like, even in the middle of summer vacation, Lower Trestles was my own private point.

I ripped the bag out of it!

Whereas yesterday was a lot of easy-going-fun-in-the-sun, today was more a trip to roller-coaster-land. The waves kicked in to be a good fast thrill ride, allowing for some serious surfing on the Long Deep thick swells that came from all the way from New Zealand. With full face carves and some vicious full speed turns today and even some tubes, I can say just like the Aussies, I ripped the bag out of it.

Summery stroll down the point

It was all summer today. Lazy waves, hot conditions, and kiddies galore at Lower's. I got plenty of waves and basked in the tepid ocean, picking off a few good ones but mostly just enjoying that summery stroll down the point.

Sent me home wanting more

I really don't like Hurricane surf. not one bit. It turns the ocean mean, gray and unruly, resulting in weaves that mostly close out. Such was the case today, as Lowers had lots of waves, lots of people and none of them any good. It was choppy and felt like surfing on top of rug instead of water. I got a few waves, but for the most part, I was just humoring myself thinking it was going to get good any second. It didn't, finally blew out, and sent me home wanting more.

Hot waves

Lower Trestles was in perfect form today, offering head high waves with just the right amount of juice so you could really blast one off the top, the bottom, or anywhere in between. In spite of the fricken' day care kids polluting the place, I still managed to get some big bowly rollers in the warmest water yet this season.While smoking out in the water, I was thinking that the breeze was just needed to cool me down after burning down the line time after time surfing all the hot waves.

Wasn't all that much fun

Well it should have been a lot better than it was, but it just wasn't all that much fun.

a couple meager waves

Hurricane season pushes warm water up to the coast, lots of people down to the beach, and usually pretty poorly shaped waves along the beach. Such was the case this last week, but the sunshine and just a tad amount of west wind lured me out today to Old Man's to fight it out with the throngs for a couple meager waves.

I am hoping this keeps up all week

Threepeat It is unlikely to get 3 days of good surf in a row, but there you have it, as Lowers was throwing out peaks a plenty again today. Not only that, but it also had those 75 yard drag strip waves for a change, making the surfing between connections over the lips, ledges and bowls just a hell of a good time. With the diminished crowds, glassier conditions and my surfing improving from water time, I am hoping this keeps up all week.

Mountains out of molehills

This was the kinda morning when a few aspirin before the session helped motivate me to get in the water after yesterday's romp. I was surrounded by kids, it was a little sloppy due to the wind, but still warm and tropical like yesterday. I almost gave it up as good bit of exercise once I got down there on the beach.

And yet...

The inside point of Lowers started to peel off, the bump backed off, and I was off to the races on several nice waves that can only be described as FUN FUN FUN!!!
As such, it was kinda breezy but fun as the Sunday crowds can't outdo the seemingly uncanny ability of lower trestles to make mountains out of molehills.

Carves and tubes galore

Nothing puts a smile on my face faster than watching a new swell come up as I paddle out. Such was the case today, as the weather turned tropical with a Mexican influence of high clouds and hot balmy humid conditions. It was like every set got a little bigger, a little better, and even more oddly, the temperature of the water seemed to rise with every set as an added bonus! Being Saturday, I almost had written the day off, but lo and behold, Lower Trestles just came alive while I watched and surfed my own little peak just off point. The little boost of adrenaline from watching the new swell build before my eyes helped, because the waves were big and fast, so I gladly took advantages of the all newly hatched swell with places for me to shred, enjoying carves and tubes galore.

Sail with the tide

After skating past the 4th of July Holiday, I got the beach back today with some swell, locals and nice conditions. It was slow at first, but the incoming tide and incoming south swell teamed up to make some pretty nice waves after being out for an hour or so. Adding a few nice left drops and turns into the mix along with the usual right point long waves with lots of turns made me think of pirates because as conditions just got better and better I can see why you follow the old addage "Sail with the tide".

At least a couple good ones

Lowers is small and weak and lousy with day kids. Not optimum conditions, but good enough to see my through to getting at least a couple good ones.

A few little duck and cover-ups

I finally gave up and did the Trestle's Truck today, loading up the bike and wheeling across hill and dale down to Lower's. Usually after the start of summer and the NSSA contest, the little snakes get tired of fighting tooth and nail with each other and the crowds are less. It was better, but I do miss the day care service that keeps all the kids out of the water usually. Still, in spite of them, I got a few waves to open up and give me a few little duck and cover-ups.

Just one hit wonders

Summertime conditions and a lazy swell made for a lackluster go out today at Old Man's. The swells were crossing up each other so much that there was nothing but peaks to take off on then very little to ride after that. So today, there were just one hit wonders.

Sometimes I just do

When the water is warmer than the air, you get a really nice feeling out in the surf. Even with 71 degree water and 65 degree air, with light off shores , Old Dogpatch was still trying my patience, cluttered with the Summer surf crowd. With a bunch of yahoos in the water and lots of long lulls, waiting was the name of the game today, as well as not getting run over or running anyone else over. till, I had a few rip roaring waves in spite of myself, trusting that I can surf circles around the other people in the water, and sometimes I just do!

Busted out a few new tricks

After taking the weekend off because the 100 degree Hot Conditions drove all manner of Kook-dom into the water, I was rewarded this morning with fairly good surf at Old Man's, slipping into a almost vacant parking lot at my favorite place by the shower and the picnic table. As the summer begins, I was pleased as to how few people were out this morning, and even though the place had a slow start because of the tide, it finally got around to getting a few peaks that were rather trestles-like. Today the special event was a couple of foam climbs, which I never had done before, but it was warm and I was loose so I just busted out a few new tricks.

Hadn't forgotten how to go backside

Rocking Summer conditions today after the Zombie fog, fog so thick you can cut it with a knife, lifted. With 3 swells running it was nonstop paddling and lots of duck diving today. Still got a few ones worth mentioning. About this time of year the Southerly Swells produce more lefts than rights, so after an entire winter of going right, I hooked up to a few big lefts today and was pleased I hadn't forgotten how to go backside.

Let me really kick it around a bit

The last few days of summer without the kids out of school is a nice reminder how surfing should be. Lots of swell and not many people enjoyed perfect conditions at Old Man's. The new SW swell was showing bigger and more closed out, but the older one, which was fading, showed a really nice peak on the semi-inside. Trouble was, it was tough letting all the big overhead ones go, but you had to as they were all closed out anyway, and sneak around on the inside getting the mid sized head high peaks that lined up and let me really kick it around a bit.

Happily tangled up in Blue

Summer surf session today at Old Man's with a somewhat lackluster swell pushing through a peak or two but not much else. At least I got a few nice ones today, as I had some death defying drops at least, even if they petered out quickly. With a little cover up and some perfect conditions to boot, I have to admit I was happily tangled up in Blue.

I predict

Well, the fin fell out of my surfboard today, signaling the ends of a Sunny era. Let's hope baby blue skies open up tomorrow, and when we try again, it will be a lot cleaner. With 3 swells breaking on top of each other, it was hard not to get bumped off today, with or without fins. Tomorrow will be way better, I predict.

I will be watching!

The surf was kinder to me today. I somehow managed a few bombs in spite of the crowds at Old Mans and ripped a few waves nicely with big roundhouse turns. There is a little spot forming in front of the showers that is just to the right of the Volleyball nets. The sand from the Southwest swell is getting pushed up there from Dogpatch and a formidable little peak is starting to show. With a week of SW swells in in the forecast, this place may be the place to be. I will be watching!

Just gave up

I don't know what is worse: Yesterday it was obviously bad and I didn't go out and today it was marginally good and I had to go out. So crowded and inconsistent, it was barely even worth it as old geezers with battleships rolled by on the the wave resisting any notion of turning, ruining one good possibility after another in terms of me getting any waves. Tired and frustrated, I eventually just gave up.

It is all good

After getting beat to death by paddling through a 45 wave set first thing when I went out, I was tired before I ever even took off this morning. A deep water Southwest swell, 210 degrees, hits this area all wrong and almost everyplace closes out. Lowers is the one exception, but everyone and their dog knows that and were all already out there as I drove by. I found that the inside left hand side of Old Man's also does a nice job with a 210 SW swell, especially if it is a deep water one with a long period. So after getting my licks in today, I returned the favor, completely destroying some head high waves with big pitchy shoulders all the way through. I may be a crippled jellyfish tomorrow once my body figures out what it did today, but for today it is all good.

Picking off the good ones

Today is the first day of summer to me! The water is nice and warm, the sun is warm and friendly, and all the little kiddies are out at Lower Trestles turning it into a virtual snake pit. I got a few little waves today but there was really nothing other than gutless tiny waves, the hallmark of summer conditions. Still, it was nice to paddle out in just a spring suit and watch the little snakes fight one another for meaningless waves while I was inside picking off the good ones.

Truly unmemorable day of surf

After what felt like a weeks worth of detention doing the travel to a graduation in San Francisco, I finally got out today under what you might describes as bleak, weak conditions. Still, it was nice to see old Lowers again and peddle down into the point and paddle out. Crowded and pitifully weak, I caught a few waves but for the most most part the only amusing thing was somebody parked their boat and paddled out at Lowers. Unfortunately, they didn't set the anchor well and it drifted south gradually as we all watched. I am sure he'll have to get it at Sano or beyond, if at all, at the rate it was drifting. Other than that, it was a truly unmemorable day of surf.

Salt Water Rinse on a hot day

Summer conditions, like 80 degrees on the beach, and some little warm waves made for a nice session today. I will go out in most anything if it is as nice as it was today. The trouble is, so will everybody else. Dog-patch was kinda doggy but I paddled on up to Old Man's and got a couple of waves worth the paddle. I waited around for the reform and jumped all over the inside reef waves . Every so often I got one to stand up and let me kick it around and it gave me a little cool Salt Water Rinse on a hot day.

Tubes, tucks and flying tight

After being polluted by mainland China for a week, I needed a serious cleansing and Lower's was happy to oblige. It was small but with just perfect shape, as well as the 85 degree temperatures, kept the water warm in the wet suit-sauna with what and I am sure I purged loads of china crap out of me. The big contest starts tomorrow so lots of of "Borg Surfers", the guys who come in 77 of 120, were crowding the main spot trying to get ready for the hypefest. While they provided snake food for each other, I just took over the next peak down the point and made sure I ripped every one I got to shreds, since the contest locks out the locals all week. With a sneaker south swell every so often, I had the time of my life with just some porpoise, including a baby one, to keep me company and a whole morning of tubes, tucks and flying tight.

I had some very good scores.

Even though I take aspirin now before I go out rather than after (well, after too...), I dragged myself down to Lowers to take advantage of a Cracking' Summery Day and some infrequent but solid waves. Off point and acting like a vulture, I picked off some head high waves that had some serious juice and speed for a change. Ducking and running down point with a silvery slick ocean, I had some excellent out of control races on the fast ones and a few tubes on some waves that opened up and threw out. The waves today were like the ones that usually show up only during the contests down at Lowers just to piss us off, but today it was definitely contestable and I had some very good scores.

The beginning of the end.

Bah. The beginning of the end.

One happy camper

Family distractions kept me out of the water for the last couple of days, but today it was just perfect at Lower Trestles as I paddled out under hot Summery conditions. With too many swells rolling through to count, there were plenty of waves for all the rabid surfers swarming all over the main point. I slipped off point to my favorite spot, and after my usual kook-fest for being out of the water for too long, I finally warmed up and got lots of sizzling ones to line up for me. So in spite of the crowd, I got enough real tubes, streaking walls and sleek peaks to make me one happy camper.

Showing some teeth in the water

Kinda wintry conditions today but a strong summery SW swell started to show at Old Man's, pushing all the, well, Old Men back to the beach and leaving us youngsters to pick and choose some pretty nice, occasionally overhead, surf for a change. This was a powerful ground swell, and the extra juice meant the take offs were like falling off a moving truck. Then, you spent most of you time trying to pump and weave to catch up with a wicked peeling wave. Of note, I did a few nice things today, like a rad foam climb that helped me make the last wave of the day which set me up for a nice little tube on the inside. Lots of shark sightings in the papers recently might of kept the crowd down too, but I'd like to think I was the one showing some teeth in the water.

Made me smile

It was almost too perfect today in terms of weather. as hot glassy conditions met a little upturn in the swell and made Lower Trestles picture perfect. Unfortunately, it was Easter Sunday and there were way to many kooks in the water to consider it a real session, but at least I got a couple that made me smile.

Just a walk in the park

Spring has sprung and waves were easy-going and soft down at old Lowers today. With it being good Friday, the Kiddie crew was out and about, so I just floated off point and waited for the NW bombs to come through, even if they were few and far between. I didn't mind playing a basking shark today as it was so killer in the water today. I got tired of waiting and paddled out for my last wave at the main point and got the total bomb for the day. Alas, Spring is in the air and today felt like just a walk in the park.

Spring is in the air

After toasting myself with the Toaster Oven, I needed a few waves to rinse off the singed smell. Luckily, Lower Trestles offered uncrowded 3 foot waves with a hint of offshore under overcast skies. Not bad, but I have become so jaded. There were years surfing in Huntington where today would have been the best day of the year in stinky old Huntington. Instead, I get flocks of Brown Pelicans swooping close by in pristine water like air force maneuvers. Spring is in the air!

Just one of those days

When it gets big enough, most surfers quickly find something else to do besides surfing. Yes, 20 wave sets have that effect on sunny good natured surfers that can fill up Sano when it is small. With the place almost to myself, I had to pick and choose, but the better sets rolled all the way through with some big walls for awesome top slashing turns and some tail whipping cutbacks that felt very good. It is also so rare, but it is still possible with a powerful swell, to just tuck in and get tubed even at Sano, so I did. It was just one of those days.

They were doozies

Bigger and better at Sano today as a South Swell crept in and washed all the old men down the beach. Me included! I don't know why, but every time I caught a wave, a 20 wave set followed. When I got back outside, it would just flatten out for 10 minutes. As a result, I only got 5 waves all morning, but at least they were doozies!

Crappity Crap

After a week in miserable, gloomy China I finally got back into the surf today at Sano under perfect conditions but lackluster waves. "You should have seen it last week!" they all said. Crappity Crap.

A little peace of heaven

Stunningly beautiful skies and crisp blue waves greeted me at Sano/Old Man's today, making me smile as I rolled into a perfect parking place for a weekend warrior. Yes, the crowds were in full force, but 25 set waves have a way of making sure everyone gets battered and goes along with the drift so the real waves are still plentiful. I got several head high sleepy rollers all the way to the beach, and a nice workout ducking under the soft foamy sets of waves billowing like clouds towards the beach. It was not ideal, but looking at leaving the US and spending a week in mainland China, it was really a little peace of heaven.

A whale tale

O MY GOD! It was perfect. Really, Really Prefect. Hot, Glassy, a Lower's Point mostly all to myself, and enough overhead waves to keep you racing down the point. On top of that, I saw a whale! Not just a sighting, but a close encounter. The 25 foot long whale surfaced 3 feet from me on the inside, between me end the shore. Needless to say, it was so perfect today you'd think it was all a whale tale.

Wayyyyy better than others

It is not often you have to think of a place SMALL enough to paddle out. That was the case today as a lingering westerly swell rolled through with some big powerful waves today. It also seemed like the first day of spring, as the rain has given way to hot sunny conditions. I was wheezing and paddling like an old man at Dogpatch today, but when I finally got one, I did things I should not still be allowed to do at my age: carving, flying over lips and ducking in tubes. I may ache tomorrow, but today is proof that some days are wayyyyy better than others.

This was even better!

Incredible is the only way to describe today. Hot, sunny glassy, the only guy out, flocks of gulls and pelicans, dolphins swimming with their new pups, white tall egrets in the shore wash all provided a fairy tale backdrop to some serious head high surf. Ripping the place to shreds with ease, doing some hero walks, and basking in the heat of the 75 degree conditions all added to that odd feeling like I was dreaming, but this was even better!

The Hero's Walk!

Holy Crap it was good today. It was 70 degrees on the beach and sunny and offshore most the morning. Big sneaker overhead NW sets would come by every so often and just peel perfectly to the shore. It is my favorite set up, as you paddle out on the right of the point for 50 paddles, pick up a bomb that takes you 150-200 yards down the point, and you kick out, step out on the sand and walk back up the beach. Although there were a few slow spots, I really ripped the living daylights out of most everything I got, seeming to keep the best ones for myself and away from the weekend crowd. I carved and tubed and backslashed every possible thing I could think of and did a couple things I have never done like through the lip turn launches that really surprised me that I pulled them off. All in all, I call the long walk back on the beach the hero's walk, because you feel like you really got it for all it was worth when you do that. After a dozen or so of just ripping the long overhead waves, I was grooving walking back up the beach, watching the dolphins swim by with their new born little ones and really feeling like I earned the Hero's Walk!

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field out in the water for an hour and and a Half. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field ou in the water. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!

Away I go!

It was lucky I hit the surf today just at the right time. The crowds disappeared and the ocean turned very friendly as it glassed off and sent a barrage of even peelers down the Lowers point and into my waiting surf session. They were smallish but well shaped waves that had the thin lip translucent green thing going that gave it an aura of wintertime chill, yet Santa Ana Warm wind glow. Just as I couldn't paddle anymore I became surrounded by a dozen kids who were like excited puppies barking all over the place and causing a scene. One for the money, two for the show, the wave of the day with a over the falls take off, then away I go!