Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Just one of those days

When it gets big enough, most surfers quickly find something else to do besides surfing. Yes, 20 wave sets have that effect on sunny good natured surfers that can fill up Sano when it is small. With the place almost to myself, I had to pick and choose, but the better sets rolled all the way through with some big walls for awesome top slashing turns and some tail whipping cutbacks that felt very good. It is also so rare, but it is still possible with a powerful swell, to just tuck in and get tubed even at Sano, so I did. It was just one of those days.

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