Friday, December 28, 2007

Little dash down the point

With a storm looming off the coast, I waited till mid morning to venture out and was glad to find the cold temps kept the crowd at bay, even for Christmas Vacation. It was a little lumpy and bumpy, but I still managed to pick off a few fun ones that Lower Trestles manged to shape up into a respectable little dash down the point.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Duck and cover tubes.

The traditional Christmas swell missed by a day, but it was worth waiting for. The head high waves at Lowers met a strong but chilly offshore wind to make a wave most just dream about. There were tubes and turns aplenty! The the crowds even left me alone so I could just go off wave after wave. I might be suckin' down aspirin today ( maybe tomorrow), but for one of the best sessions in recent memory, I really don't care, as I will think only of the 100 yard racetracks filled with duck and cover tubes.

Monday, December 17, 2007

I am definitely warming up

Frickkin' 30 degree mornings sorta put the sunrise surf out of the comfort zone, so I opted for a later go out and was greeted with only one guy out and lots of waves. It was fun and games until 25 people showed up within 5 minutes, turning Lowers Point into a cross with the 405 freeway and a game of dodge ball. Still, early on I got a few little tubes and felt less like a kook like last time. After a big couple of waves and a final 10 yard floater, I can say I am definitely warming up.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

I got a few

Holy Crap! There were waves today. Too bad I was out of shape from sitting around waiting for the ocean to get it up again for what feels like weeks, (if not all year). Still, 5 guys out at Lowers in offshore sunny conditions is a thing of beauty. With 3 swells to choose from, it was like a buffet of 3 foot barrels. Sadly, more of them got me than I got them. But I got a few.