Tuesday, June 10, 2008

It is all good

After getting beat to death by paddling through a 45 wave set first thing when I went out, I was tired before I ever even took off this morning. A deep water Southwest swell, 210 degrees, hits this area all wrong and almost everyplace closes out. Lowers is the one exception, but everyone and their dog knows that and were all already out there as I drove by. I found that the inside left hand side of Old Man's also does a nice job with a 210 SW swell, especially if it is a deep water one with a long period. So after getting my licks in today, I returned the favor, completely destroying some head high waves with big pitchy shoulders all the way through. I may be a crippled jellyfish tomorrow once my body figures out what it did today, but for today it is all good.

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