Ain't dead yet set

Old Man's is a funny place. The talk in the water drifts from medical tests, MRI's and even 1 guy was bragging about wearing a heart monitor while surfing. The old guys ride battleships and rarely even turn them, so for the last couple days, I resigned myself to sitting inside and getting their better shaped reforming waves breaking on the inside while trying to avoid the armada of battleships that coast on swells not even breaking by the ain't dead yet set.

Really cool

The water dropped 10 degrees since last time but some waves popped up overnight, fighting the choppy little wind swell, as the bigger deep water swells from a long way off rolled through irregularly. Some good waves at little old man's for a bit until the waves slowed from the tide, signaling all the kooks that it was safe to paddle out, so they did. Shivery though it was in only a spring suit, I still ripped the tops off a few head high waves which made the cold water just seem really cool.