Friday, May 25, 2007

I blended in well

After almost giving up hope of the surf ever returning, the ocean finally teased and spread out a nice buffet of waves to ride today. Without the stinking red tide, glassy green waves rolled gently to shore, which I hope is a hint of summertime things to come soon. Glassy and head high waves occasionally made me think: I can still do this! Even after a few false starts, due to lack of practice, I got eventually into rhythm and cruised up and down, back and forth, and in and out the foamy rollers just like old times. Breaking out of the box, I went to Old Mans inside reef on the south side. The SW swell needed a real point to break on, and despite the crowd, I could cherry pick what I needed between the goofy pack out there. Just as well, really, because the lack of surf has made me feel like an old man, so I blended in well.

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