Thursday, September 21, 2006

The last day of summer

What should have been really good surf seemed to avoid me most of the morning. I paddled out to an empty line up of overhead waves and just couldn't find the right place at the right time. Then the masses came out to join me and everyone else seemed to be at the right place at the right time except me. The swells slowly switched around, making the big close out sets more manageable in the sunny offshore conditions. Only in the last 45 minutes or so did things really come together. The higher tide pushed the breaking waves from the gutless outside breaking walls to a pretty snappy pitching inside break over the reef and proceeded to serve up some of the tasty hollow waves on, sadly, the last day of summer.

No comments: