Thursday, September 28, 2006

To the beach in one easy motion

Not wanting to fight the crowds at Lowers again, particularly when the local high school has a play-day off today, I took a shot at Doheny at the crack of dawn, hoping the shabby swell might shape up a bit there. Turns out I was almost right. The SW swell, sometimes between close outs, offered a few maddening well shaped but slow waves that rolled into the beach from all way outside at one turtle pace speed, cutting across the little jetty and onto shore. So the amusing part for this morning's adventure was practicing this several times so when I finally caught my last wave I rode it onto the shore, stepped off the board and continued up the shore to the beach in one easy motion.

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