Monday, September 18, 2006

Really nothing short of epic!

Conditions are so temperamental in surfing that rarely does everything hit opus at the same time. Today, fortunately, everything did. Hot offshore winds, perfect tides, a number of well shaped deep water swells, and a light crowd produced some extraordinarily screaming 100 yard long tubey little freight trains at Lower Trestles this morning. Surfing in the crack between when the early morning locals get a few before work and before the drunks stagger back down to the point, I had my favorite peak to myself as set after set of big deep water swells pushed past the main point and right to me. Aside from a couple of dozen waves including the double tube ride and several full tilt power turns to catapult me up, over and down the point, today was really nothing short of epic!

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