Friday, June 06, 2008

Picking off the good ones

Today is the first day of summer to me! The water is nice and warm, the sun is warm and friendly, and all the little kiddies are out at Lower Trestles turning it into a virtual snake pit. I got a few little waves today but there was really nothing other than gutless tiny waves, the hallmark of summer conditions. Still, it was nice to paddle out in just a spring suit and watch the little snakes fight one another for meaningless waves while I was inside picking off the good ones.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Truly unmemorable day of surf

After what felt like a weeks worth of detention doing the travel to a graduation in San Francisco, I finally got out today under what you might describes as bleak, weak conditions. Still, it was nice to see old Lowers again and peddle down into the point and paddle out. Crowded and pitifully weak, I caught a few waves but for the most most part the only amusing thing was somebody parked their boat and paddled out at Lowers. Unfortunately, they didn't set the anchor well and it drifted south gradually as we all watched. I am sure he'll have to get it at Sano or beyond, if at all, at the rate it was drifting. Other than that, it was a truly unmemorable day of surf.

Monday, May 19, 2008

Salt Water Rinse on a hot day

Summer conditions, like 80 degrees on the beach, and some little warm waves made for a nice session today. I will go out in most anything if it is as nice as it was today. The trouble is, so will everybody else. Dog-patch was kinda doggy but I paddled on up to Old Man's and got a couple of waves worth the paddle. I waited around for the reform and jumped all over the inside reef waves . Every so often I got one to stand up and let me kick it around and it gave me a little cool Salt Water Rinse on a hot day.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Tubes, tucks and flying tight

After being polluted by mainland China for a week, I needed a serious cleansing and Lower's was happy to oblige. It was small but with just perfect shape, as well as the 85 degree temperatures, kept the water warm in the wet suit-sauna with what and I am sure I purged loads of china crap out of me. The big contest starts tomorrow so lots of of "Borg Surfers", the guys who come in 77 of 120, were crowding the main spot trying to get ready for the hypefest. While they provided snake food for each other, I just took over the next peak down the point and made sure I ripped every one I got to shreds, since the contest locks out the locals all week. With a sneaker south swell every so often, I had the time of my life with just some porpoise, including a baby one, to keep me company and a whole morning of tubes, tucks and flying tight.

Friday, April 18, 2008

I had some very good scores.

Even though I take aspirin now before I go out rather than after (well, after too...), I dragged myself down to Lowers to take advantage of a Cracking' Summery Day and some infrequent but solid waves. Off point and acting like a vulture, I picked off some head high waves that had some serious juice and speed for a change. Ducking and running down point with a silvery slick ocean, I had some excellent out of control races on the fast ones and a few tubes on some waves that opened up and threw out. The waves today were like the ones that usually show up only during the contests down at Lowers just to piss us off, but today it was definitely contestable and I had some very good scores.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

The beginning of the end.

Bah. The beginning of the end.

Monday, April 14, 2008

One happy camper

Family distractions kept me out of the water for the last couple of days, but today it was just perfect at Lower Trestles as I paddled out under hot Summery conditions. With too many swells rolling through to count, there were plenty of waves for all the rabid surfers swarming all over the main point. I slipped off point to my favorite spot, and after my usual kook-fest for being out of the water for too long, I finally warmed up and got lots of sizzling ones to line up for me. So in spite of the crowd, I got enough real tubes, streaking walls and sleek peaks to make me one happy camper.