The heat of the moment

Today wasn't just pretty good, it was pretty incredible. A bit of pre-swell started showing around noon today so I raced down to Lower's and got some of the first of the swell. It is a deep water NW, and it likes to break right on my favorite spot. While 25 miserable foes battled for a SW mush peak on top of the point, down the line offered a 80 yard race track filled with big hard turns, off the wall snaps, carving free fall lip bounces and even a deep barrelling tube to round off the session. With a smile on my face I had the greatest carving session in recent memory in hot glassy mid day excellence, noting that the icy water temperature was long forgotten in the heat of the moment.