Tuesday, March 13, 2007

The great illusion

I don't know what is worse, no swell or bad swell. At least with no swell you know you don't want to go out. With bad swell there is the illusion that you could catch something. Such was the case today, as it was big but no shape along the coast. As usual, Lowers boasted 100 people in the water as it could almost manage the unruly swell. I tried a bit at Dogpatch, but the south wind and lumpy waves drove me in pretty quickly. Just a maintenance day really, paddling under 15 or so 6 foot set waves at a time, they really were not worth the effort. Still, even if I did catch only 2 waves that had a shoulder to them, I really flew along and over a few racy floater sections. So, sometimes, I think that it does pay to take a chance and try to surf the great illusion.

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