Monday, June 16, 2008
I predict
Well, the fin fell out of my surfboard today, signaling the ends of a Sunny era. Let's hope baby blue skies open up tomorrow, and when we try again, it will be a lot cleaner. With 3 swells breaking on top of each other, it was hard not to get bumped off today, with or without fins. Tomorrow will be way better, I predict.
Friday, June 13, 2008
I will be watching!
The surf was kinder to me today. I somehow managed a few bombs in spite of the crowds at Old Mans and ripped a few waves nicely with big roundhouse turns. There is a little spot forming in front of the showers that is just to the right of the Volleyball nets. The sand from the Southwest swell is getting pushed up there from Dogpatch and a formidable little peak is starting to show. With a week of SW swells in in the forecast, this place may be the place to be. I will be watching!
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Just gave up
I don't know what is worse: Yesterday it was obviously bad and I didn't go out and today it was marginally good and I had to go out. So crowded and inconsistent, it was barely even worth it as old geezers with battleships rolled by on the the wave resisting any notion of turning, ruining one good possibility after another in terms of me getting any waves. Tired and frustrated, I eventually just gave up.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
It is all good
After getting beat to death by paddling through a 45 wave set first thing when I went out, I was tired before I ever even took off this morning. A deep water Southwest swell, 210 degrees, hits this area all wrong and almost everyplace closes out. Lowers is the one exception, but everyone and their dog knows that and were all already out there as I drove by. I found that the inside left hand side of Old Man's also does a nice job with a 210 SW swell, especially if it is a deep water one with a long period. So after getting my licks in today, I returned the favor, completely destroying some head high waves with big pitchy shoulders all the way through. I may be a crippled jellyfish tomorrow once my body figures out what it did today, but for today it is all good.
Friday, June 06, 2008
Picking off the good ones
Today is the first day of summer to me! The water is nice and warm, the sun is warm and friendly, and all the little kiddies are out at Lower Trestles turning it into a virtual snake pit. I got a few little waves today but there was really nothing other than gutless tiny waves, the hallmark of summer conditions. Still, it was nice to paddle out in just a spring suit and watch the little snakes fight one another for meaningless waves while I was inside picking off the good ones.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Truly unmemorable day of surf
After what felt like a weeks worth of detention doing the travel to a graduation in San Francisco, I finally got out today under what you might describes as bleak, weak conditions. Still, it was nice to see old Lowers again and peddle down into the point and paddle out. Crowded and pitifully weak, I caught a few waves but for the most most part the only amusing thing was somebody parked their boat and paddled out at Lowers. Unfortunately, they didn't set the anchor well and it drifted south gradually as we all watched. I am sure he'll have to get it at Sano or beyond, if at all, at the rate it was drifting. Other than that, it was a truly unmemorable day of surf.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Salt Water Rinse on a hot day
Summer conditions, like 80 degrees on the beach, and some little warm waves made for a nice session today. I will go out in most anything if it is as nice as it was today. The trouble is, so will everybody else. Dog-patch was kinda doggy but I paddled on up to Old Man's and got a couple of waves worth the paddle. I waited around for the reform and jumped all over the inside reef waves . Every so often I got one to stand up and let me kick it around and it gave me a little cool Salt Water Rinse on a hot day.
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