Showing some teeth in the water

Kinda wintry conditions today but a strong summery SW swell started to show at Old Man's, pushing all the, well, Old Men back to the beach and leaving us youngsters to pick and choose some pretty nice, occasionally overhead, surf for a change. This was a powerful ground swell, and the extra juice meant the take offs were like falling off a moving truck. Then, you spent most of you time trying to pump and weave to catch up with a wicked peeling wave. Of note, I did a few nice things today, like a rad foam climb that helped me make the last wave of the day which set me up for a nice little tube on the inside. Lots of shark sightings in the papers recently might of kept the crowd down too, but I'd like to think I was the one showing some teeth in the water.

Made me smile

It was almost too perfect today in terms of weather. as hot glassy conditions met a little upturn in the swell and made Lower Trestles picture perfect. Unfortunately, it was Easter Sunday and there were way to many kooks in the water to consider it a real session, but at least I got a couple that made me smile.

Just a walk in the park

Spring has sprung and waves were easy-going and soft down at old Lowers today. With it being good Friday, the Kiddie crew was out and about, so I just floated off point and waited for the NW bombs to come through, even if they were few and far between. I didn't mind playing a basking shark today as it was so killer in the water today. I got tired of waiting and paddled out for my last wave at the main point and got the total bomb for the day. Alas, Spring is in the air and today felt like just a walk in the park.

Spring is in the air

After toasting myself with the Toaster Oven, I needed a few waves to rinse off the singed smell. Luckily, Lower Trestles offered uncrowded 3 foot waves with a hint of offshore under overcast skies. Not bad, but I have become so jaded. There were years surfing in Huntington where today would have been the best day of the year in stinky old Huntington. Instead, I get flocks of Brown Pelicans swooping close by in pristine water like air force maneuvers. Spring is in the air!

Just one of those days

When it gets big enough, most surfers quickly find something else to do besides surfing. Yes, 20 wave sets have that effect on sunny good natured surfers that can fill up Sano when it is small. With the place almost to myself, I had to pick and choose, but the better sets rolled all the way through with some big walls for awesome top slashing turns and some tail whipping cutbacks that felt very good. It is also so rare, but it is still possible with a powerful swell, to just tuck in and get tubed even at Sano, so I did. It was just one of those days.

They were doozies

Bigger and better at Sano today as a South Swell crept in and washed all the old men down the beach. Me included! I don't know why, but every time I caught a wave, a 20 wave set followed. When I got back outside, it would just flatten out for 10 minutes. As a result, I only got 5 waves all morning, but at least they were doozies!

Crappity Crap

After a week in miserable, gloomy China I finally got back into the surf today at Sano under perfect conditions but lackluster waves. "You should have seen it last week!" they all said. Crappity Crap.