Sunday, October 21, 2007

Monster waves today

Lower Trestles is usually a cupcake of a wave to surf. Not today, though. It had teeth and claws and was just plain mean. Two deep water swells were crossing it up making really hard to paddle and just get out into the lineup. Also, all kinds of juice was kicking in and tossing lips, peaks and lots of surfers all over the place. I got my cookies crunched, but not before I made some spectacular waves, literally flying over the surface of the water at break neck speed. I did better than most, as boards and weekend warriors tumbled over the falls and got chewed up in almost every imaginable way around me in the surf. It was very entertaining to watch at least. Then, the Santa Ana winds kicked up, and made the waves have 30 foot plumes of spray and picture perfect. I just got out and enjoyed the 85 degree heat on the beach as I watched. As the 25 mph offshore hot winds made it almost unridable, but terribly fun to watch, It was an early trick or treat as everyone took turns and got chewed up by the monster waves today.

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