Saturday, February 09, 2008

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field out in the water for an hour and and a Half. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!

Rocking the wave pool again

After getting nothing for so long because of travel, sickness and more sickness, I finally made it out to Lower Trestles today. The gods must have felt sorry for me because they sent perfect little waves and cleared the playing field ou in the water. Although I was a rusty old horse's ass to start the session, I finally warmed up and began smacking a few lips and rocking the wave pool again!

Wednesday, January 02, 2008

Away I go!

It was lucky I hit the surf today just at the right time. The crowds disappeared and the ocean turned very friendly as it glassed off and sent a barrage of even peelers down the Lowers point and into my waiting surf session. They were smallish but well shaped waves that had the thin lip translucent green thing going that gave it an aura of wintertime chill, yet Santa Ana Warm wind glow. Just as I couldn't paddle anymore I became surrounded by a dozen kids who were like excited puppies barking all over the place and causing a scene. One for the money, two for the show, the wave of the day with a over the falls take off, then away I go!

Friday, December 28, 2007

Little dash down the point

With a storm looming off the coast, I waited till mid morning to venture out and was glad to find the cold temps kept the crowd at bay, even for Christmas Vacation. It was a little lumpy and bumpy, but I still managed to pick off a few fun ones that Lower Trestles manged to shape up into a respectable little dash down the point.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Duck and cover tubes.

The traditional Christmas swell missed by a day, but it was worth waiting for. The head high waves at Lowers met a strong but chilly offshore wind to make a wave most just dream about. There were tubes and turns aplenty! The the crowds even left me alone so I could just go off wave after wave. I might be suckin' down aspirin today ( maybe tomorrow), but for one of the best sessions in recent memory, I really don't care, as I will think only of the 100 yard racetracks filled with duck and cover tubes.

Monday, December 17, 2007

I am definitely warming up

Frickkin' 30 degree mornings sorta put the sunrise surf out of the comfort zone, so I opted for a later go out and was greeted with only one guy out and lots of waves. It was fun and games until 25 people showed up within 5 minutes, turning Lowers Point into a cross with the 405 freeway and a game of dodge ball. Still, early on I got a few little tubes and felt less like a kook like last time. After a big couple of waves and a final 10 yard floater, I can say I am definitely warming up.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

I got a few

Holy Crap! There were waves today. Too bad I was out of shape from sitting around waiting for the ocean to get it up again for what feels like weeks, (if not all year). Still, 5 guys out at Lowers in offshore sunny conditions is a thing of beauty. With 3 swells to choose from, it was like a buffet of 3 foot barrels. Sadly, more of them got me than I got them. But I got a few.