Away I go!

It was lucky I hit the surf today just at the right time. The crowds disappeared and the ocean turned very friendly as it glassed off and sent a barrage of even peelers down the Lowers point and into my waiting surf session. They were smallish but well shaped waves that had the thin lip translucent green thing going that gave it an aura of wintertime chill, yet Santa Ana Warm wind glow. Just as I couldn't paddle anymore I became surrounded by a dozen kids who were like excited puppies barking all over the place and causing a scene. One for the money, two for the show, the wave of the day with a over the falls take off, then away I go!

Little dash down the point

With a storm looming off the coast, I waited till mid morning to venture out and was glad to find the cold temps kept the crowd at bay, even for Christmas Vacation. It was a little lumpy and bumpy, but I still managed to pick off a few fun ones that Lower Trestles manged to shape up into a respectable little dash down the point.

Duck and cover tubes.

The traditional Christmas swell missed by a day, but it was worth waiting for. The head high waves at Lowers met a strong but chilly offshore wind to make a wave most just dream about. There were tubes and turns aplenty! The the crowds even left me alone so I could just go off wave after wave. I might be suckin' down aspirin today ( maybe tomorrow), but for one of the best sessions in recent memory, I really don't care, as I will think only of the 100 yard racetracks filled with duck and cover tubes.

I am definitely warming up

Frickkin' 30 degree mornings sorta put the sunrise surf out of the comfort zone, so I opted for a later go out and was greeted with only one guy out and lots of waves. It was fun and games until 25 people showed up within 5 minutes, turning Lowers Point into a cross with the 405 freeway and a game of dodge ball. Still, early on I got a few little tubes and felt less like a kook like last time. After a big couple of waves and a final 10 yard floater, I can say I am definitely warming up.

I got a few

Holy Crap! There were waves today. Too bad I was out of shape from sitting around waiting for the ocean to get it up again for what feels like weeks, (if not all year). Still, 5 guys out at Lowers in offshore sunny conditions is a thing of beauty. With 3 swells to choose from, it was like a buffet of 3 foot barrels. Sadly, more of them got me than I got them. But I got a few.

The wave of the day

Me, myself and flat paddled out today in beyond perfect conditions in the rather optimistic hope that Lower Trestles could work its magic. Thankfully, old Lowers pulled out a few just for me, which I sorely needed after weeks battling travel and the flu blues. I got some fun ones in between long lulls, where I really enjoyed floating around watching the birds fish and a few paddle boarders work their way up and down the coast looking for waves. Eventually, the tide pushed up some real waves and, lo and behold, I did a in and out tube and some nice little flirts with some other tubes that opened up for me and sent me down the point with classic style. All things considered, it was just what I needed, and I also got, for my troubles, the wave of the day!

Seriously wicked wave

Holy Crap! It was perfect today, just perfect. Overhead big swells pushing into a stiff hot offshore wind. The only drawback was the crowd because everyone KNOWS it is perfect today thanks to all the Surf Reporters and Surfline. The other thing was the winds brought some awful dust and grunge to all the surfaces and even the air. Still, I got a few waves today that were flawless from start to finish at Dogpatch. Overhead and just slightly slower than closeout, they were just rocket launchers when you could fight your way down the face with the strong offshore winds. Once you did, though, you got a seriously wicked wave!