The Waiting Game

Well, it's been 2 long weeks of being sick and not being able to make it out in the water to surf. An uncomfortable bout of the vapors kept me from surfing, but the ocean also took a turn for the worse, too, and really I didn't miss all that much as weather, tides and swells conspired to produce some pretty weak conditions for last couple weeks. Being able to surf today, I wasn't about to take no for an answer, so I had to wait for the tide to drop, the crowd to disperse, and then paddle out into a misty drizzly Lowers point with only 4 guys out and take my chances. I wasn't expecting much, for even Middles wasn't breaking, but in the truly strange form that only Lowers seems to do, waves for a short while during optimum tide just popped up and broke pretty well, all things considered. I was a little rusty, but I stumbled into some pretty peaks at my favorite spot that lined up much better down the point than even the ones breaking on the point itself. I got swallowed up by more waves than usual, but having my favorite peak to myself, flying lessons included, and picking off a dozen peeling waves made it easily worth the waiting game