Snap

There was a definite snap in the air today as Fall was turning our little summer surf into something playful and fun. Old Man's was tossing a rare tube and I was hitting it with not a usual glide over the sections but with a solid snap.

Just a walk in the park

Spring has sprung and waves were easy-going and soft down at old Lowers today. With it being good Friday, the Kiddie crew was out and about, so I just floated off point and waited for the NW bombs to come through, even if they were few and far between. I didn't mind playing a basking shark today as it was so killer in the water today. I got tired of waiting and paddled out for my last wave at the main point and got the total bomb for the day. Alas, Spring is in the air and today felt like just a walk in the park.

A very welcome change

As scary as it was to watch 50 kids paddling out towards you in red shirts from the local Sea Surf School, it really turned out OK, as I just paddled down in front of Old Mans and got some rip roaring waves for a change. With a new swell just showing and the the conditions and tides just perfect, I hung around on the inside and seriously whacked a few nice waves today for a very welcome change.

Miracle of Miracles!

New Swells and good conditions finally arrived on the same day. Miracle of Miracles!

In Full Swing

Hot glassy Dogpatch filled with every imaginable kind of surfdog and some you couldn't imagine in your wildest dreams. Ahhhh, summer is in full swing!

The Waiting Game

Well, it's been 2 long weeks of being sick and not being able to make it out in the water to surf. An uncomfortable bout of the vapors kept me from surfing, but the ocean also took a turn for the worse, too, and really I didn't miss all that much as weather, tides and swells conspired to produce some pretty weak conditions for last couple weeks. Being able to surf today, I wasn't about to take no for an answer, so I had to wait for the tide to drop, the crowd to disperse, and then paddle out into a misty drizzly Lowers point with only 4 guys out and take my chances. I wasn't expecting much, for even Middles wasn't breaking, but in the truly strange form that only Lowers seems to do, waves for a short while during optimum tide just popped up and broke pretty well, all things considered. I was a little rusty, but I stumbled into some pretty peaks at my favorite spot that lined up much better down the point than even the ones breaking on the point itself. I got swallowed up by more waves than usual, but having my favorite peak to myself, flying lessons included, and picking off a dozen peeling waves made it easily worth the waiting game