Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Real peeling fun ones

It was a spectacular sunrise as I got out very early hoping to beat the crowd. Heading down to Dogpatch I found my favorite little spot infested with butt boarders and stand-ins, which is what I call the guys who go out in Kayaks and the new-fangled craze of standing up on your board and paddling with an oar. Undaunted, a new south swell was strong enough to beat those guys up pretty quickly and a nice 270 degree west swell and strong offshore wind meant there were honest to god tubes on the inside reef. I inspected several nice waves from the inside out and blew the bag out of a whole lot more until the local geezers made the place less fun than it should have been. Still, for a couple of hours, it felt like a wave machine turned up to medium-well done and sunny offshore conditions made some real peeling fun ones.

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