Monday, November 17, 2008
Feels pretty good
Fun and playful Lower's is pretty fun any way you cut it. Summer like conditions and a bit of swell allowed my favorite peak to kick up a few peaks that really made my day. Felt like I had my own personal peak, and that feels pretty good.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Top 5 days at Lowers ever
Not Epic, but Lowers was truly classic today in Summer-like conditions. Doing the noon hour run, the hot and glassy conditions with the head high swell made for a few of those waves that make you feel like you are Slater. Slamming the lips, carving roundhouse cutbacks and ducking through tubes made today for me one of the top 5 days at Lowers ever.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Snap
There was a definite snap in the air today as Fall was turning our little summer surf into something playful and fun. Old Man's was tossing a rare tube and I was hitting it with not a usual glide over the sections but with a solid snap.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Rather playful manner
After a long dry spell, letting the long list of injuries finally heal, I limped out today and had a rather good session out in the Waves at Dogpatch. Officially, Winter long suit and offshore conditions met me with some nice long waves that pushed me down the point in a rather playful manner.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
To just get a taste
Just as I leave the surf goes epic...typical! Even Old Man's had some big deep water rollers that had lots of shoulder today, and I managed a few ones to just get a taste.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Made it all worthwhile
Summer-like conditions prevailed today with what can only be described as Disneyesque. Bunnies, Squirrels , Dragon Flies , Butterflies and all manner of Toontown things were in the water and out enjoying the beach today. At what at first was maximum capacity crowds gave way to me and my own little peak this Indian Summer's day Out at Old Man's at Sano. And even if the waves at Old man's were nothing special, the giftwrapping of Indian summer made it all worthwhile.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Upper Middle Lowers
Conditions were perfect so I wheeled down to my favorite spot and was able to snag a few waves here and there. With big A Frames coming in at the point, I slipped just off it and got the better waves that raced down the point rather than break and just fade fast. Did no less than a three dipper on my last wave, and stepped off onto the sand as the tide was just killing it but making it hollow. My theory is it is hollower and better at high tide at the big T because it rolls past the gradual shelf rise and up the beach faster. As it turns out, I really like my spot at Upper Middle Lowers.
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