I was just plain lucky!

I was lucky today more than anything . I found the best parking spot for both my car and my bike. The peak just in front of the fire pit at Lowers was empty and throwing a few rare peaks and corners rather than close-outs like every other place had and I surfed it all by myself for a whole hour! The few waves I surfed weren't much more than one hit wonders but I still managed to shred them somehow, so, all in all, to get what I got, I was just plain lucky!

To just get a taste

Just as I leave the surf goes epic...typical! Even Old Man's had some big deep water rollers that had lots of shoulder today, and I managed a few ones to just get a taste.

I predict

Well, the fin fell out of my surfboard today, signaling the ends of a Sunny era. Let's hope baby blue skies open up tomorrow, and when we try again, it will be a lot cleaner. With 3 swells breaking on top of each other, it was hard not to get bumped off today, with or without fins. Tomorrow will be way better, I predict.