That is something

It was Summertime...Too crowded at Old Man's to have fun...To nice not to go out. Never really got any good waves, but didn't get run over either . I guess that is something.

Sometimes I just do

When the water is warmer than the air, you get a really nice feeling out in the surf. Even with 71 degree water and 65 degree air, with light off shores , Old Dogpatch was still trying my patience, cluttered with the Summer surf crowd. With a bunch of yahoos in the water and lots of long lulls, waiting was the name of the game today, as well as not getting run over or running anyone else over. till, I had a few rip roaring waves in spite of myself, trusting that I can surf circles around the other people in the water, and sometimes I just do!

Happily tangled up in Blue

Summer surf session today at Old Man's with a somewhat lackluster swell pushing through a peak or two but not much else. At least I got a few nice ones today, as I had some death defying drops at least, even if they petered out quickly. With a little cover up and some perfect conditions to boot, I have to admit I was happily tangled up in Blue.

Bat out a hell

Lower Trestles was the only game in town today, and out of desperation, I took a chance and rolled the rig on down. As it turns out, I was just plain lucky today. Head high waves at my favorite little peak, which I had all to myself, made for a really good session. There are 7-8 actual take off spots at lowers, and I usually prefer lucky number 7. Although the first 3 waves reminded me how lame you get if you don't get out surfing enough, by wave number 5, I was rolling right along as usual. By wave 10 I was really rocking and rolling. Nice to know I still can kick it around and rip! And by wave number 15, I was really flying down the inside point like a bat out a hell!

Lit me up like a rocket!

In the middle of Memorial Day Weekend, it is best to run off and find a quiet place....Actually there is no such thing today. Lines of cars 100 deep were the norm trying to slip in to Trestles and Sano.
With that, Trails was the Call today. Even at old Trail 2, the crowd loomed. But as a pod of porpoise passed by, I decided to flip a coin. I lost, and had to paddle out. As luck would have it, the people dissolved the the surf got much better. In fact, there were two waves that lit me up like a rocket!

I blended in well

After almost giving up hope of the surf ever returning, the ocean finally teased and spread out a nice buffet of waves to ride today. Without the stinking red tide, glassy green waves rolled gently to shore, which I hope is a hint of summertime things to come soon. Glassy and head high waves occasionally made me think: I can still do this! Even after a few false starts, due to lack of practice, I got eventually into rhythm and cruised up and down, back and forth, and in and out the foamy rollers just like old times. Breaking out of the box, I went to Old Mans inside reef on the south side. The SW swell needed a real point to break on, and despite the crowd, I could cherry pick what I needed between the goofy pack out there. Just as well, really, because the lack of surf has made me feel like an old man, so I blended in well.