Sometimes I just do

When the water is warmer than the air, you get a really nice feeling out in the surf. Even with 71 degree water and 65 degree air, with light off shores , Old Dogpatch was still trying my patience, cluttered with the Summer surf crowd. With a bunch of yahoos in the water and lots of long lulls, waiting was the name of the game today, as well as not getting run over or running anyone else over. till, I had a few rip roaring waves in spite of myself, trusting that I can surf circles around the other people in the water, and sometimes I just do!