Away I go!

It was lucky I hit the surf today just at the right time. The crowds disappeared and the ocean turned very friendly as it glassed off and sent a barrage of even peelers down the Lowers point and into my waiting surf session. They were smallish but well shaped waves that had the thin lip translucent green thing going that gave it an aura of wintertime chill, yet Santa Ana Warm wind glow. Just as I couldn't paddle anymore I became surrounded by a dozen kids who were like excited puppies barking all over the place and causing a scene. One for the money, two for the show, the wave of the day with a over the falls take off, then away I go!

Little dash down the point

With a storm looming off the coast, I waited till mid morning to venture out and was glad to find the cold temps kept the crowd at bay, even for Christmas Vacation. It was a little lumpy and bumpy, but I still managed to pick off a few fun ones that Lower Trestles manged to shape up into a respectable little dash down the point.

Open the window

A small window of opportunity opened up today as surf, tides and weather made a whole hour of pretty good surf. Smallish but well groomed, the little peaks sometimes broke off from the main peak at at Lowers and rolled a 100 yards or more, breaking down the line and all the way back to where I usually park my bike at the fire ring. Aside from a a few truant children mucking things up a bit, it was a nice session to stretch out and get a few long flowing turns over, around, and power floating the shoulder high walls that marched in precision all the way to the beach. I only did one hero walk but lots of long paddle backs, as I was more than ready today to open the window.