Away I go!

It was lucky I hit the surf today just at the right time. The crowds disappeared and the ocean turned very friendly as it glassed off and sent a barrage of even peelers down the Lowers point and into my waiting surf session. They were smallish but well shaped waves that had the thin lip translucent green thing going that gave it an aura of wintertime chill, yet Santa Ana Warm wind glow. Just as I couldn't paddle anymore I became surrounded by a dozen kids who were like excited puppies barking all over the place and causing a scene. One for the money, two for the show, the wave of the day with a over the falls take off, then away I go!