Wayyyyy better than others

It is not often you have to think of a place SMALL enough to paddle out. That was the case today as a lingering westerly swell rolled through with some big powerful waves today. It also seemed like the first day of spring, as the rain has given way to hot sunny conditions. I was wheezing and paddling like an old man at Dogpatch today, but when I finally got one, I did things I should not still be allowed to do at my age: carving, flying over lips and ducking in tubes. I may ache tomorrow, but today is proof that some days are wayyyyy better than others.