Sunday, February 10, 2008
The Hero's Walk!
Holy Crap it was good today. It was 70 degrees on the beach and sunny and offshore most the morning. Big sneaker overhead NW sets would come by every so often and just peel perfectly to the shore. It is my favorite set up, as you paddle out on the right of the point for 50 paddles, pick up a bomb that takes you 150-200 yards down the point, and you kick out, step out on the sand and walk back up the beach. Although there were a few slow spots, I really ripped the living daylights out of most everything I got, seeming to keep the best ones for myself and away from the weekend crowd. I carved and tubed and backslashed every possible thing I could think of and did a couple things I have never done like through the lip turn launches that really surprised me that I pulled them off. All in all, I call the long walk back on the beach the hero's walk, because you feel like you really got it for all it was worth when you do that. After a dozen or so of just ripping the long overhead waves, I was grooving walking back up the beach, watching the dolphins swim by with their new born little ones and really feeling like I earned the Hero's Walk!
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