Monday, June 04, 2007
Bat out a hell
Lower Trestles was the only game in town today, and out of desperation, I took a chance and rolled the rig on down. As it turns out, I was just plain lucky today. Head high waves at my favorite little peak, which I had all to myself, made for a really good session. There are 7-8 actual take off spots at lowers, and I usually prefer lucky number 7. Although the first 3 waves reminded me how lame you get if you don't get out surfing enough, by wave number 5, I was rolling right along as usual. By wave 10 I was really rocking and rolling. Nice to know I still can kick it around and rip! And by wave number 15, I was really flying down the inside point like a bat out a hell!
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Lumpy, bumpy and dumpy
Desperation made me paddle out into Old Man's, today, hoping for a miracle. If only, somehow, the close-out lumpy waves would produce something worth riding. As it turns out, I got 5 waves, all about head high, but nothing really special. Still, that was 5 more than if I just stayed on the beach, so, I suppose, I should be grateful, even if they were all lumpy, bumpy and dumpy.
Lumpy, bumpy and dumpy
Desperation made me paddle out into Old Man's today hoping for a miracle that the close out lump waves would produce something worth riding. As it turns out, I got 5 waves, all about head high, but nothing really special. Still, that was 5 more than if I just stayed on the beach, so I suppose I should be grateful even if they were lumpy, bumpy and dumpy.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Lit me up like a rocket!
In the middle of Memorial Day Weekend, it is best to run off and find a quiet place....Actually there is no such thing today. Lines of cars 100 deep were the norm trying to slip in to Trestles and Sano.
With that, Trails was the Call today. Even at old Trail 2, the crowd loomed. But as a pod of porpoise passed by, I decided to flip a coin. I lost, and had to paddle out. As luck would have it, the people dissolved the the surf got much better. In fact, there were two waves that lit me up like a rocket!
With that, Trails was the Call today. Even at old Trail 2, the crowd loomed. But as a pod of porpoise passed by, I decided to flip a coin. I lost, and had to paddle out. As luck would have it, the people dissolved the the surf got much better. In fact, there were two waves that lit me up like a rocket!
Friday, May 25, 2007
I blended in well
After almost giving up hope of the surf ever returning, the ocean finally teased and spread out a nice buffet of waves to ride today. Without the stinking red tide, glassy green waves rolled gently to shore, which I hope is a hint of summertime things to come soon. Glassy and head high waves occasionally made me think: I can still do this! Even after a few false starts, due to lack of practice, I got eventually into rhythm and cruised up and down, back and forth, and in and out the foamy rollers just like old times. Breaking out of the box, I went to Old Mans inside reef on the south side. The SW swell needed a real point to break on, and despite the crowd, I could cherry pick what I needed between the goofy pack out there. Just as well, really, because the lack of surf has made me feel like an old man, so I blended in well.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Friday, April 06, 2007
Good Friday!
Not as pretty or big today, but a sparse crowd over my favorite little reef at Dogpatch was all I needed. A scant 2-4 feet and and easy paddle, I lumbered about picking off some fair waves at first that only got better as the tide came in. I won't say it will hit the history books for quality or beauty, but a few rippers peeling over the inside reef is enough for me to call it a Good Friday!
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