They were doozies

Bigger and better at Sano today as a South Swell crept in and washed all the old men down the beach. Me included! I don't know why, but every time I caught a wave, a 20 wave set followed. When I got back outside, it would just flatten out for 10 minutes. As a result, I only got 5 waves all morning, but at least they were doozies!

Hula Bula Lucky Day

Zippity Do Dah Day! The kids are back in school, the water is still warmed up nicely. Surf and sunny offshore conditions produced some really Cowabunga surf at the Dogpatch this morning. Some of the waves lined up and really let me have a go on them. Slicing and dicing my way down the point, I had more than my fair share today as the old men paddled off the spot. It was a Hula Bula Lucky Day!

Bring it on

The Summer Circus left town after a final weekend of soaring temperatures and meager surf that produced the worst crowds I have ever seen. Predictably, the day after found me at my favorite spot at Dogpatch by myself picking off all the head high curvy little waves I could catch. I am glad summer is over, day care is almost in session, and if this is any glimpse into what fall has in store for me, then I say bring it on!

A perfect 10

Today was throwing down 10s and I was grabbing them up as fast as I could. With the tides funky real early, I made it out a bit later today, knowing full well onshore winds weren't going to be an issue. I basked in hot, glassy waves, and 80 degree temperatures on the beach all morning. I even had to use sunscreen! The swell seemed to greet me, a new deep water south, that had head high waves with a bit of wallop. Thankfully, the early morning crowd had retired and the mid morning group was no match for these juicy waves. Today was mostly about flying. I flew over sections, over closeouts, over insane re-entry wraps and just about everything the ocean threw at me. I was doing remarkably well for a change, knocking the bag out of most everything and getting a few tubes as well. I don't think I would have scored any 10's in a contest, but for me at Dogpatch, I'd give today a perfect 10.