The waves of the day

Easter crowds have come and gone with the addition of some very good surf, much to the dismay of all the little groms sitting in class. I just did the Old Man's thing, because of the SW swell in the water, and the inside bowl at low tide did not disappoint. After a couple of back to back absolutely perfect walls I was just wheezing like a race horse at the wire, but certainly in just a few minutes lucked into the waves of the day.