Surf-a-go-go!

Campfires are like incense in the morning at the beach in winter when the thermometer slips below 50. Dogpatch was cold, but really good, as West swells pummelled the point nonstop. Gasping for air a lot due to a certain lack of waves and conditioning this year, I still managed to make a non stop loop in across the point, ripping it up wave after wave, while avoiding the weekend crowd for the most part. Under stupid but fun things I did this morning were the over the falls floater take off and made, a couple of complete leave-the-wave aerial off the lips and and a power turn that literally killed the wave enough to duck under the lip. Not too shabby for the birthday boy, who, in spite of himself, takes another stab at the big point waves and finds it still surf-a-go-go!