My own private point

When I saw the Lowers Peak with only 3 guys out this morning, I raced down as fast as I could and got it empty, glassy and good. Sadly, 30 people joined us in no time, the wind came up, and I left in disgust yet again. But for a few minutes it felt like, even in the middle of summer vacation, Lower Trestles was my own private point.

I ripped the bag out of it!

Whereas yesterday was a lot of easy-going-fun-in-the-sun, today was more a trip to roller-coaster-land. The waves kicked in to be a good fast thrill ride, allowing for some serious surfing on the Long Deep thick swells that came from all the way from New Zealand. With full face carves and some vicious full speed turns today and even some tubes, I can say just like the Aussies, I ripped the bag out of it.

Summery stroll down the point

It was all summer today. Lazy waves, hot conditions, and kiddies galore at Lower's. I got plenty of waves and basked in the tepid ocean, picking off a few good ones but mostly just enjoying that summery stroll down the point.

Sent me home wanting more

I really don't like Hurricane surf. not one bit. It turns the ocean mean, gray and unruly, resulting in weaves that mostly close out. Such was the case today, as Lowers had lots of waves, lots of people and none of them any good. It was choppy and felt like surfing on top of rug instead of water. I got a few waves, but for the most part, I was just humoring myself thinking it was going to get good any second. It didn't, finally blew out, and sent me home wanting more.

Hot waves

Lower Trestles was in perfect form today, offering head high waves with just the right amount of juice so you could really blast one off the top, the bottom, or anywhere in between. In spite of the fricken' day care kids polluting the place, I still managed to get some big bowly rollers in the warmest water yet this season.While smoking out in the water, I was thinking that the breeze was just needed to cool me down after burning down the line time after time surfing all the hot waves.

Wasn't all that much fun

Well it should have been a lot better than it was, but it just wasn't all that much fun.

a couple meager waves

Hurricane season pushes warm water up to the coast, lots of people down to the beach, and usually pretty poorly shaped waves along the beach. Such was the case this last week, but the sunshine and just a tad amount of west wind lured me out today to Old Man's to fight it out with the throngs for a couple meager waves.