Sent me home wanting more

I really don't like Hurricane surf. not one bit. It turns the ocean mean, gray and unruly, resulting in weaves that mostly close out. Such was the case today, as Lowers had lots of waves, lots of people and none of them any good. It was choppy and felt like surfing on top of rug instead of water. I got a few waves, but for the most part, I was just humoring myself thinking it was going to get good any second. It didn't, finally blew out, and sent me home wanting more.

Hot waves

Lower Trestles was in perfect form today, offering head high waves with just the right amount of juice so you could really blast one off the top, the bottom, or anywhere in between. In spite of the fricken' day care kids polluting the place, I still managed to get some big bowly rollers in the warmest water yet this season.While smoking out in the water, I was thinking that the breeze was just needed to cool me down after burning down the line time after time surfing all the hot waves.

Wasn't all that much fun

Well it should have been a lot better than it was, but it just wasn't all that much fun.

a couple meager waves

Hurricane season pushes warm water up to the coast, lots of people down to the beach, and usually pretty poorly shaped waves along the beach. Such was the case this last week, but the sunshine and just a tad amount of west wind lured me out today to Old Man's to fight it out with the throngs for a couple meager waves.

I am hoping this keeps up all week

Threepeat It is unlikely to get 3 days of good surf in a row, but there you have it, as Lowers was throwing out peaks a plenty again today. Not only that, but it also had those 75 yard drag strip waves for a change, making the surfing between connections over the lips, ledges and bowls just a hell of a good time. With the diminished crowds, glassier conditions and my surfing improving from water time, I am hoping this keeps up all week.

Mountains out of molehills

This was the kinda morning when a few aspirin before the session helped motivate me to get in the water after yesterday's romp. I was surrounded by kids, it was a little sloppy due to the wind, but still warm and tropical like yesterday. I almost gave it up as good bit of exercise once I got down there on the beach.

And yet...

The inside point of Lowers started to peel off, the bump backed off, and I was off to the races on several nice waves that can only be described as FUN FUN FUN!!!
As such, it was kinda breezy but fun as the Sunday crowds can't outdo the seemingly uncanny ability of lower trestles to make mountains out of molehills.

Carves and tubes galore

Nothing puts a smile on my face faster than watching a new swell come up as I paddle out. Such was the case today, as the weather turned tropical with a Mexican influence of high clouds and hot balmy humid conditions. It was like every set got a little bigger, a little better, and even more oddly, the temperature of the water seemed to rise with every set as an added bonus! Being Saturday, I almost had written the day off, but lo and behold, Lower Trestles just came alive while I watched and surfed my own little peak just off point. The little boost of adrenaline from watching the new swell build before my eyes helped, because the waves were big and fast, so I gladly took advantages of the all newly hatched swell with places for me to shred, enjoying carves and tubes galore.