My own private point

When I saw the Lowers Peak with only 3 guys out this morning, I raced down as fast as I could and got it empty, glassy and good. Sadly, 30 people joined us in no time, the wind came up, and I left in disgust yet again. But for a few minutes it felt like, even in the middle of summer vacation, Lower Trestles was my own private point.

I ripped the bag out of it!

Whereas yesterday was a lot of easy-going-fun-in-the-sun, today was more a trip to roller-coaster-land. The waves kicked in to be a good fast thrill ride, allowing for some serious surfing on the Long Deep thick swells that came from all the way from New Zealand. With full face carves and some vicious full speed turns today and even some tubes, I can say just like the Aussies, I ripped the bag out of it.

Summery stroll down the point

It was all summer today. Lazy waves, hot conditions, and kiddies galore at Lower's. I got plenty of waves and basked in the tepid ocean, picking off a few good ones but mostly just enjoying that summery stroll down the point.